Weekend adventures
Friday morning, there was some sunshine so I got to it with the patio weeds for a bit, and then Beryl and I spent a bit of time babysitting the new goat, Liam, who really has some dependency issues. Then it was suddenly noon and Michael, the New Yorker couchsurfer, was in Ballina to pick me up for a drive north and an adventurous weekend. (This was all arranged rather at the last minute, but turned out. It should not surprise you much by now, I guess.) We drove rather quickly north, as though we had a pressing need to be someplace, and stopped for just long enough in the town of Donegal to grab a traditional marzipan and fruit cake layered easter cake at a little bakery and have a look at the shi-shi hotel. In fairness, we were meeting another Dublin-based couchsurfer in Derry that evening, and we got there in just about perfect time. From there up to Carndonaugh where we met up with our host, Ed, and his 4 housemates and a whole pile of other folks who were already beginning to assemble for a Good Friday party at about 7pm. (The Good Friday party is a distinctly Irish sort of phenomenon... Good Friday being one of the two days in the year during which one may not purchase alcohol in the Republic of Ireland, folks stock up and have private house parties and get especially wasted, just to make a point.)
This was all in good fun, though, and the party was silly – reminding me very much of KAOS parties back in NZ. Different, to be sure, but similar. The music was largely from the 80's – like all the popular fashion here, oi! - and I only got in a couple decent dances, but it was fun to hang back and watch the party unfold, with many impromptu performances by the household and guests. Lots of conversation, too. Finally exhausted to bed around 4am... to get up again at 7, being out-of-sorts with the traveling vibe and planning to clean up a bit before heading out to explore the Inishowen peninsula.
And what a peninsula! It was gorgeous :) I am eager to return to Co. Donegal to hike away a summer. Beautiful coastal vistas and hills and tucked-away enchanting little landscapes. We drove all day around to various points and heads. The company helped me to develop a deeper appreciation for my own good traveling friends, my companions for the weekend being... fine enough as folks, but, well I actually don't want to go into it, but I did struggle, in moments, to enjoy this amazing journey – sometimes you get lucky and sometimes you get something else entirely. I considered other options, but decided to stick it out and I think it turned out fine in the end, providing me a relatively comfortable and flexible opportunity to see a lot of Ireland and yet another handful of lessons about “myself and others”. Which sounds like a good title for a sitcom.
12 April - ish
So... while away from the net I failed to keep a very good daily record... so you'll be getting a condensed version of the last week or so.
From Belfast, where I stayed with Natalie, a lovely Australian girl who took me jogging with her and took extra time out of her free day to show me and several other couchsurfers (including a crew of French boys fresh off the bus from Dublin) around to the murals and notable neighborhoods of Belfast. It was excellent – a drink in the Crown Bar was definitely worth it, just to spend a few minutes inside, looking around. I had difficulties getting in touch with Isa, and at the last minute finally did – and was able to catch the last evening bus to Enniskillen, after trying to catch the one before and getting myself fully lost in Belfast city center, working my way out eventually, with a lot of unhelpful stops to request directions. Anyway – the bus ride was fine, and Isa picked me up at the station to bring me out to the countryside near Blacklion, which is not even on the map. Nevertheless, it is gorgeous out here. Monday night and I find myself on a little smallholding in County Cavan – the home of Isa, her boyfriend Andy, and her 3 kids; Siog, Oisin and Siaorse. And the goats, chickens, horses, cats, dogs.... etc. The weather was lovely all last weekend for traveling, and this week it will be touch and go, as it is, clear one day, rain the next.
We went to Sligo Tuesday for a day in town – errands and such. WWOOF work here has involved sawing wood, gathering ivy and willow, doing the chicken rounds, tending the goats a bit, an odd handful of gardening – weeding, always, planting potatoes and onions now - and washing a lot of dishes. It's a good mix. Isa has shared her art with me – which has been inspiring – and a lot of philosophy about life and fairies... some knowledge about herbs, and she has done several tarot readings for me. Which has all been interesting at least. I discovered tansy here, it is a highly aromatic herb meant to keep flies away. I like it plenty. Also, I discovered that gorse flowers smell something like coconut and vanilla, but taste rather like cucumber.
And ah the glorious sunny days of the weekend, complete with trips out and around the countryside to see the wells, the ancient sweat lodge and graveyard... the forest park, the lakes, the charming local pub(s). Saturday was a party for Siog's 10th birthday – so we went out to Boyle Forest Park (Lough key) for a little party. Picnic in the park and a walk while the kids went into the activity center whwere they have obstacle puzzles set up. Looked like fun. It was good to interact with some other adults... I felt inspired and sociable... this week I had been feeling reserved and quiet and wondering a little what happened between the motivation to come do this thing and being here, in a perpetually subdued condition. I know I am getting something out of all this, but 'what' is not always apparent from day to day. I haven't been swimming since DC. Maybe that has something to do with it.
Following Tuesday morning, up early (god, I never got enough sleep this week and was seriously collapsing by the time I got to bed each night) and off to Sligo to catch the bus to Ballina. On the way: kids to school, eggs to Bee and the cat to the vet to have the metal pin removed from his leg (he is recovering from a forklift accident.) Drowsy on the bus but couldn't stand to miss the view under the extraordinary sunlight today, so kept awake and trekked it from the Sligo road back down to Beryl's – where her taxi met me along the road just as I was about ready for a rest- perfect timing. Straight into the garden with us. So satisfying to be working outside in this weather!
The weather, oh god the weather! Ballina is so much more pleasant under this light.
Feeling that old motivation come 'round to tug me along to be more productive, in some abstract way I never have quite defined.
22 April
Last minute and I hear from Dawn (the French one) in Ballina about a trip to Galway for a couchsurfing meetup at Quay's Pub. It was a quick turnaround, less than 24 hours really at Beryl's, and I thought about staying just to have enough time to get some work done in return for her hospitality, but she encouraged me to go, and I really thought it would be a good chance to see this other bit of the island. It turned out to be an excellent night!
Dawn drove, and we had good conversation and new countryside to view the whole afternoon. (She had to wait for me a bit because there was this little washing fiasco... I tried to plan for enough time for everything to line dry – but I was surprised when the wash took 3 hours... something funny about these little front-loader machines. Then it began to cloud over and rain a bit, so I was draping things over radiators and still packed it damp. Argh. These little details of life get exhausting. But I guess we can get used to anything, given enough time and resolution.)
We had dinner at Fat Freddie's – where I had a really nice salad – with her friend Marie, also from France, with a much more Irish sounding accent, and with whom we would stay for the night. Then next door to the pub to meet up with about a dozen other folks. A lovely time, complete with live music – lots of rock covers, but played quite well. Chair dancing ensued. I have been desperate to hear 'Float On' for days and frustrated I did not bring it with me - and they played it, all unexpectedly. That was a standing dance.
I left the evening with a tourist guide for the Czech Republic, and I'm thinking 'go with the flow (?)'.... It was an unexpected and welcome gift.
23 April
On a train leaving Galway for Dublin and no plan for what I will do for the night because I never did get in touch with my friends there about this quick trip through, carrying everything with me and hoping to leave most of it with someone in Dublin rather than take it all to Norway, which costs a load via RyanAir, and which would also be generally a burden.
Galway is a lovely, interesting city that I bet would suit me, for a while at least. Wish I had more time to spend, but at least the weather obliged with sun and comfort for walking about today.
I'm glad I wound up, by luck alone, with a seat at a table on this train; it is packed. I found out that I could have had a bus for 5Euro, and the train was 15... point being: it is nice to see cheap public transit options. (There are 3 teenage girls sitting in this vicinity, all 80's get-up, making quite a fuss of putting on their makeup between invections of gossip.)
So, with all this unexpected time away from the net and running about, I failed to plan my trip to Norway via Dublin tonight and I am very last-minute frantically trying to piece it together. But suddenly got a text from a friend of a friend of Ellen Marie who will take me in for the night :) I could always grab a hostel, but it is so much more satisfying to spend the evening weaving the network, one degree or six at a time. Ah, if it keeps always coming together so nicely, what will ever encourage me to plan things better?
On this trip, the landscape is relatively flat... different – another glad opportunity with a new vista. (Athlone looks like a cute little place worth checking out. At least from the train it does.)
Ah... getting attacked by the train sleepies now, and suddenly it is a different world. So interesting, how quickly we can seem to leave one thing behind... whether or not it is truly left behind is another psychological endeavor entirely. And these are the sorts of musings you get from a drowsy Laura.
In Dublin, exercise for my shoulders, walk in the drizzle a few km, trail a tipsy crowd of women who are walking too slow for my taste, but not slow enough to justify passing on the narrow path with this wide load – they turn out to be all visiting together from Norway, and are delighted when I mention I am going tomorrow, stop in to Avoca for a scone, then to Trinity College to meet Jess (in a master's program in literature), Rachel (EM's friend from undergrad), and a number of their friends for dinner at Mona Lisa (not recommended, though they were accommodating to our requests and the gigantic backpack I dragged in) before heading out to Jess' student apartment to crash.
Friday 24 April
Whew! Morning meant packing down in to a tiny backpack I could carry-on so as to avoid the RyanAir 30 Euro checked-bag fee, (almost got stuck with a 20Euro fee because I was 5 minutes late for the online check-in, but somehow by a twist of fate at the airport, I escaped that one, and was almost stopped at the gate because I actually had a small bag strapped to the outside of me backpack, but the guy was obviously stressed and could not hold up the line to fuss with me and my little bag), bus to City Center from jess's place, another bus to the airport form there, and I was finally in the air. Made it to Oslo... after finding myself in a tiny airport in Torp through which it took ages to get though passport control lines and then find some cash to be on my way by bus to Oslo. Chatted with a lovely woman on the bus the whole way – 90 minutes or so – and Ellen Marie was waiting patiently for me at the station. Late night by then, and a full day.
Saturday 25 April
EM's brother invited us out to Drammen, about 25 minutes on the train from Oslo center, to visit with him and his son and daughter while the son was taking part in the St. George's Day festivities for scouts... and we all got to participate! They had scores of booths and activities set up for the scouts to hone their skills – I sampled coffee and lefse and campfire-cooked popcorn and bread. (Some of these ideas were excellent! Like the bread dough wrapped on a stick and cooked over coals. Seriously.)
Home, exhausted, in the afternoon (after a stop to get contact lens solution, which I managed to spend $18 on – maybe should have paid RyanAir that 30Euro to check a bag after all and brought illicit eye-hygiene supplies for resale... phew) and green veggie curry for dinner. We were invited to a birthday party for a friend of EM and we were late, but it was going strong the whole time. Delicious carrot cake and fruit-muffiny cupcakes. And weird little smoke-flavor orange-colored pasta-shaped crisps. And lots of people talking in Norwegian... unless they wanted to include me in the conversation, which was often enough. No dancing though. :(
Sunday 26 April
Supposedly there was a big cultural festival at the roof of the new opera house in Oslo, so we went down to check it out, but it turned out that there was only a remainder of the festival that was on yesterday. But we did get to sit in on a rehearsal happening on a ship which involved a female British conductor, an orchestra of mid-age Norwegians and a battery of teenage mixed-ethnicity drummers. It was pretty good stuff. Outside the rehearsal area, we had some damn good fried spring rolls while we listened to the DJ's choice of reggae.
Walked out and around the old city fortress, around into city center where we treated ourselves to ice cream, then found our way home in time for dinner – salad and rice porridge. Yum. Watched a little documentary about an American woman who came from a wealthy East coast family and settled in a remote area in Norway to homestead and learn traditional crafts and generally be self-sufficient. Took it easy in the evening, early to bed with work looming tomorrow. I finally began to catch up on... everything, but slowly.
Monday 27 April
After getting up to have cappuccino with EM, she went off to work and I got to it with my application for the Christine Mirzayan Science Policy Fellowship with the National Academies of Science. I struggled with that all day until it was time to make a bite of dinner before EM came home – then we took the train about 25 minutes out to the end of the line and were in the mountains, forest, compelte with ski and hiking trails with a fair bit of snow still on the ground. We started walking around 7 pom and it was nice that the twilight lingered until about 10:30 because we needed every last bit of it to get to the end of our trail, where we just missed the waiting train by half an arm's length.. But the next came after 30 minutes and we arrived home pleasantly exhausted.
Tuesday 28 April
EM likes to make cappuccino in the morning and I don't mind the little ritual myself. Still struggling with the sleepies... but I am glad to be up in the morning – I need to get to bed a bit earlier.
Finished the fellowship application, went walking to celebratre. Got some fancy seeeded sourdough bread and then to Asylet to attend the Oslo monthly couchsurfer meeting. Luck, again, that I happened to be here for the event. It started early, 6pm, with a small group of 3, 6, 10.... and by the time I left at 9:30, there were certainly 50 or more. It was nice, lots of conversation, many languages – I used my teensy bit of Norwegian, just for fun, as well as Russian, Spanish and some Farsi. Again, new people and new conversation was all good – no dancing, yet again. We left a bit early because we were starving. I had a little waffel there, but it was not so great. I cooked \up a bit of random-leftover veggie curry for a late dinner and we packed up and crashed.
29 April
On a train to Bergen, 8am. And I say 'helloooooo Norway!' Spectacular. Plunging slopes carpeted in forest, glassy fjords and wild, rushing rivers. Sweet little farms with white houses and red barns. Patches and splashes of different greens, greys, black, blue... so much grandeur. Really, spectacular.
EM made coffee again for our morning, and oatmeal. Snack of crispbread with salty crunchy peanut butter and apple jam. Uytz! (That's the first time I have tried transliterating that little thing I like to say... I don't know if it works, but experimentation begets innovation.) I am enjoying being with her, just happy to share and catch up and feel more at-home.
Tonight I will meet her charming boyfriend, CP, who has promised to take me dancing and hiking.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Away, away
I am on internet hiatus for a bit. Another week or so and I will have a chance to catch up. Until then, if you want to send me anything while I am here, I will receive things that arrive before May 11th care of:
EM Winther
Enerhaugplassen 4a
N-0650 Oslo
Norway
And that's all for now.
EM Winther
Enerhaugplassen 4a
N-0650 Oslo
Norway
And that's all for now.
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
Wednesday, 08 April: Glory Hallelujah
Success!
It looked like it would be a nasty day, and then a little blue began to show through - and after a few piddly showers made their way across the sky, it opened up in full, sunny majesty. I was elated! And so productive! There are 6 rows ready for potatoes and a new row of daffodils on the ridge.
Afternoon - I walked into town and, after many thanks to Jay and Josh for their help, was able to get a Vodafone sim card and I am all set to communicate - ah, it was missing, indeed.
So, if you need me: (Ireland country code is 00+353) 087-918-5253
That was a major highlight of my day. Met Beryl and we went for coffee - she figured we would have better luck at a place called Mocha Beans. I chanced an espresso and it was not so awful. More discussion of culture, politics, etc. We have lots of good talks, Beryl and I :)
Home again and out to walk in the fields and sit in the sun. A couple of the neighbors' calves were out on the path, clearing the roadside grass, and all the farmyard creatures were feelin' good. The pony was especially inquisitive and frisky today and tried to eat my elbow while I was enjoying the view. The eager puppy was around again, and a strange neighbor cat that chased Zazu in turns. I decided to do some more weeding of the paved lot around back and fantasized about having weekly dances there, with live music and wonderful food and all sorts of revelry. I mixed it up with dancing, myself, in the setting sunlight. The moon came up early and full and glorious behind the trees which are just budding out. So the day ends very full of promise. Well... the promise that all is transient, because of course now the moon is sheltered behind the drizzling clouds again :)
It looked like it would be a nasty day, and then a little blue began to show through - and after a few piddly showers made their way across the sky, it opened up in full, sunny majesty. I was elated! And so productive! There are 6 rows ready for potatoes and a new row of daffodils on the ridge.
Afternoon - I walked into town and, after many thanks to Jay and Josh for their help, was able to get a Vodafone sim card and I am all set to communicate - ah, it was missing, indeed.
So, if you need me: (Ireland country code is 00+353) 087-918-5253
That was a major highlight of my day. Met Beryl and we went for coffee - she figured we would have better luck at a place called Mocha Beans. I chanced an espresso and it was not so awful. More discussion of culture, politics, etc. We have lots of good talks, Beryl and I :)
Home again and out to walk in the fields and sit in the sun. A couple of the neighbors' calves were out on the path, clearing the roadside grass, and all the farmyard creatures were feelin' good. The pony was especially inquisitive and frisky today and tried to eat my elbow while I was enjoying the view. The eager puppy was around again, and a strange neighbor cat that chased Zazu in turns. I decided to do some more weeding of the paved lot around back and fantasized about having weekly dances there, with live music and wonderful food and all sorts of revelry. I mixed it up with dancing, myself, in the setting sunlight. The moon came up early and full and glorious behind the trees which are just budding out. So the day ends very full of promise. Well... the promise that all is transient, because of course now the moon is sheltered behind the drizzling clouds again :)
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Tuesday, 07 April: To Turlaugh
Cold, wet, miserable day. Gladly, we had planned a trip to the Museum of Country Life, out near the tiny townlet of Turlaugh. We got a bus form Ballina and in less than 30 minutes were at a lovely estate where they have constructed a rather nice little museum dedicated to, ta-da, country life in Ireland. Which did not change much until pretty recently, apparently. And was always pretty rough.
Schedules here are all written in military time, and due to a little misinterpretation of the bus departure time, we had an extra hour to while after we left the museum. We waited in the rain and hung out in a little express stop shop - the only thing in Turlaugh aside from newly built little miniaturized suburban estates. I got some marzipan. It is exceptionally cheap in Europe compared with the US, which I do not understand at all, but am always happy to remember when I am in Europe.
I noticed a paucity of art in the lives of common Ireland... there is some art in the textiles and of course music, dance, story-telling... but in terms of visual art, symbolic motifs, etc. I tend to associate certain motifs with Ireland - celtic art... but all that is something esoteric, carried out by ancient monks and not much to do with anyone's everyday life. Everyday life was always just about managing through the poverty. This was my thought theme for the afternoon.
Home again in the evening and I got in a mood to find out about some tango. There are quite a few groups in Ireland dancing tango - but none near here and all the workshops and festivals are in the wrong time/place combo for me. Alas. Might be Nora's Tango Week in the SF bay area for me in July if I can't get the bug out - I miss it desperately. Tango demands desperation, after all :)
Schedules here are all written in military time, and due to a little misinterpretation of the bus departure time, we had an extra hour to while after we left the museum. We waited in the rain and hung out in a little express stop shop - the only thing in Turlaugh aside from newly built little miniaturized suburban estates. I got some marzipan. It is exceptionally cheap in Europe compared with the US, which I do not understand at all, but am always happy to remember when I am in Europe.
I noticed a paucity of art in the lives of common Ireland... there is some art in the textiles and of course music, dance, story-telling... but in terms of visual art, symbolic motifs, etc. I tend to associate certain motifs with Ireland - celtic art... but all that is something esoteric, carried out by ancient monks and not much to do with anyone's everyday life. Everyday life was always just about managing through the poverty. This was my thought theme for the afternoon.
Home again in the evening and I got in a mood to find out about some tango. There are quite a few groups in Ireland dancing tango - but none near here and all the workshops and festivals are in the wrong time/place combo for me. Alas. Might be Nora's Tango Week in the SF bay area for me in July if I can't get the bug out - I miss it desperately. Tango demands desperation, after all :)
Monday, 06 April 2009: Good, hard work!
Ah... it feels good! I got on a roll today clearing up a section of the massive concrete portion of the farm yard. It was so satisfying! Partly because they had predicted lots of nasty rain all week and it turned out to only be windy with scattered bits of rain and I got to spend the whole day outside. Well, except when we came in to plant massive tons of seeds in little pots that we secured in little plastic baggie greenhouses... which was also fun. But I love to have things tidy, you know, and it feels better to look out the kitchen window now.
Beryl made some mighty fine popcorn as an evening treat, and the ubiquitous television brought us fascinating stories of intrigue and unrest while I casted about the net for more more more information, and generally socialized. I am feeling much more myself the last several days, energetic and curious and enthusiastic, after a little down-turn when I first arrived.
Founding Farmers is an excellent little restaurant in DC and they are planning a second location and looking for investors... so I learned about what it takes for a person to be considered and 'accredited investor'. It's not me. But I have been thinking of business models a lot lately, and I get these urges, you know. Well, it is nothing new, I have had a couple business schools on my list of possibilities for years.
Today I was invited by a friend of Beryl's form the Organic Centre to help at her 30-acre farm. I was just planning to stay here until I go to Norway, but it is a new spot and sounds like bustling family and they could really use some help with the goats and horses and it all sounds like too much fun to pass up - so I will be heading out to Co. Cavan come the weekend. Or perhaps after meeting up with some CSers for a god romp around the North.
Beryl made some mighty fine popcorn as an evening treat, and the ubiquitous television brought us fascinating stories of intrigue and unrest while I casted about the net for more more more information, and generally socialized. I am feeling much more myself the last several days, energetic and curious and enthusiastic, after a little down-turn when I first arrived.
Founding Farmers is an excellent little restaurant in DC and they are planning a second location and looking for investors... so I learned about what it takes for a person to be considered and 'accredited investor'. It's not me. But I have been thinking of business models a lot lately, and I get these urges, you know. Well, it is nothing new, I have had a couple business schools on my list of possibilities for years.
Today I was invited by a friend of Beryl's form the Organic Centre to help at her 30-acre farm. I was just planning to stay here until I go to Norway, but it is a new spot and sounds like bustling family and they could really use some help with the goats and horses and it all sounds like too much fun to pass up - so I will be heading out to Co. Cavan come the weekend. Or perhaps after meeting up with some CSers for a god romp around the North.
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Sunday, 05 April: Communications...
Although it was a lovely day - as in, it is relatively dry (nevermind the cold and gushing wind and prevalence of ominous clouds) - I did not go out! I have been speaking with family and friends and generally trying to sort out communications... I think I will be setting up international roaming on my phone so you will then be able to call me at domestic rates and I will be able to call out at about $1 a minute. Not cheap, but cheaper than buying a phone here and I definitely am going to need to have one. I want to meet up with some other travelers and couchsurfers and it is altogether too challenging without a mobile phone. I realized the part in Norway could be tricky since I have to take a bus from the airport that Ryanair serves to meet Ellen Marie in Oslo. I'll feel much more confident with a functional phone.
So - it has been an internet day. But I had a great view of the wind across the fields and through the trees! And I didn't mind being inside on this 'lovely day'. Plus - I had an inspiring talk with Jay this morning and it lifted my mood about the DC fellowship this Fall, and I decided to go ahead with the application. The acceptance rate is about 10% and not based solely on merit, but has a lot to do with the match of current projects to applicants, and there is no way to know what projects will be available, so anyway, just saying it may still not happen, but I am definitely applying. Half done with the app already! Should finish tomorrow... The weather forecast suggests an awful lot of rain might be coming through next week.
Beryl and I made nettle soup and it was delicious! It was nice to cook together. Getting re-oriented to my self today... after the dizzying effect of sudden displacement/replacement/misplacement that travel can have. It was weird to open my work email account and suddenly have all this political news and activity to sift... even though it has not been long at all since it was a standard part of my daily life. But I love the rediscovery of the self/core/whatever that reveals itself when the settling occurs. It's awesome.
So - it has been an internet day. But I had a great view of the wind across the fields and through the trees! And I didn't mind being inside on this 'lovely day'. Plus - I had an inspiring talk with Jay this morning and it lifted my mood about the DC fellowship this Fall, and I decided to go ahead with the application. The acceptance rate is about 10% and not based solely on merit, but has a lot to do with the match of current projects to applicants, and there is no way to know what projects will be available, so anyway, just saying it may still not happen, but I am definitely applying. Half done with the app already! Should finish tomorrow... The weather forecast suggests an awful lot of rain might be coming through next week.
Beryl and I made nettle soup and it was delicious! It was nice to cook together. Getting re-oriented to my self today... after the dizzying effect of sudden displacement/replacement/misplacement that travel can have. It was weird to open my work email account and suddenly have all this political news and activity to sift... even though it has not been long at all since it was a standard part of my daily life. But I love the rediscovery of the self/core/whatever that reveals itself when the settling occurs. It's awesome.
Saturday, 04 April: To Market
Up early to set up for the ever-so-quaint Ballina Farmer's Market. There are about 10 producers supplying the market, and plenty of diversity of selection: produce, meat (terrestrial and oceanic), cheeses, baked goods...
Not busy enough, however, for me to be much help, so I went exploring town on my own. Got into the couple thrift stores (charity shops) and appreciated all the fashionable clothing (no, really!). Picked up a couple books (the Irish make fine authors) and a funny Irish trivia game called 'Gaelic Conquest'. I want to send it to my brother, but I don't know if he would appreciate it or find it frustrating, because who really does want to know all that much about Irish history?
Spent time nursing a sad little 'mocha' at a nice cafe where they were playing some classic rock/pop that made me want to dance. (It was just a weak mocha... I don't think they do a whole lot of coffee here, probably should have asked for tea. Also, soymilk is not a standard alternative; there is typically no alternative - whole or 2%).
Spent a while in the fine, sunny afternoon talking with other producers at the market, which was interesting. Weeds in the afternoon and a tepid bath (I had no left the 'immersion' - water heater - on long enough. Details, my friends. It is the details of daily life we take for granted. Partly it is the different country, and partly it is just being in the countryside... but these are interesting little things that really influence how people think and approach the world which we never really consider. Fascinating, all of it!)
Spent lots of time talking with Beryl about food, farming, science, culture - all the usual topics.
The puppy from up the road came around wanting to play and ran off with my shoe, but brought it back and was glad to join me for a walk. He's an eager one - a hunting dog of some lovely breed.
Not busy enough, however, for me to be much help, so I went exploring town on my own. Got into the couple thrift stores (charity shops) and appreciated all the fashionable clothing (no, really!). Picked up a couple books (the Irish make fine authors) and a funny Irish trivia game called 'Gaelic Conquest'. I want to send it to my brother, but I don't know if he would appreciate it or find it frustrating, because who really does want to know all that much about Irish history?
Spent time nursing a sad little 'mocha' at a nice cafe where they were playing some classic rock/pop that made me want to dance. (It was just a weak mocha... I don't think they do a whole lot of coffee here, probably should have asked for tea. Also, soymilk is not a standard alternative; there is typically no alternative - whole or 2%).
Spent a while in the fine, sunny afternoon talking with other producers at the market, which was interesting. Weeds in the afternoon and a tepid bath (I had no left the 'immersion' - water heater - on long enough. Details, my friends. It is the details of daily life we take for granted. Partly it is the different country, and partly it is just being in the countryside... but these are interesting little things that really influence how people think and approach the world which we never really consider. Fascinating, all of it!)
Spent lots of time talking with Beryl about food, farming, science, culture - all the usual topics.
The puppy from up the road came around wanting to play and ran off with my shoe, but brought it back and was glad to join me for a walk. He's an eager one - a hunting dog of some lovely breed.
Friday, April 3, 2009
Friday, 03 April: Finally, Music
Got up late on account of the rain and greyness of the morning... read and took it easy all morning, fussed with too-wet soil a bit then gussied up for town in the afternoon (finally met the neighbors, nearest, who gave us a lift). My phone won't take an Irish sim card, bah, but it picks up network fine - I need to ask ATT again about international roaming, because cheapest phone the could offer me here is 50E plus whatever operational costs. So anyway. The library is a cute little thing and the post office is always busy. I like this town alright.
Had an early dinner at a Chinese place that Beryl really loves. Something to understand bout this woman is that she is self-described plain-vanilla kind of person. Do you understand? It was ok, but you follow me, right?
Home for more fussing with the aforementioned soil and picking nettles for soup. The evening was gorgeous with mixed clouds and haze laminating the sunset.
Then in to Crockett's on the Quay for a traditional Irish music session, which finally actually happened, and it was a sweet little place to sit and chat and listen and have a scotch and watch the folks.
Home late - and up early tomorrow for the farmers market.
Had an early dinner at a Chinese place that Beryl really loves. Something to understand bout this woman is that she is self-described plain-vanilla kind of person. Do you understand? It was ok, but you follow me, right?
Home for more fussing with the aforementioned soil and picking nettles for soup. The evening was gorgeous with mixed clouds and haze laminating the sunset.
Then in to Crockett's on the Quay for a traditional Irish music session, which finally actually happened, and it was a sweet little place to sit and chat and listen and have a scotch and watch the folks.
Home late - and up early tomorrow for the farmers market.
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Thursday, 02 April: A New Dawn
After battling with the internet until late last night, I woke surprisingly early to a glorious sunny day. I had been trying to meet up with the only active CSer in Ballina (Dawn, a lively French girl who has been here for 10 years now) and finally we connected this morning. She was taking a CS guest (Isaac, from Quebec) out for a drive to Lacken, on the beach, and picked me up to come along. We also picked up Mariane (sp?) a French au pair who is living in a funky modern house with a living roof near Lacken... we ran around quite a bit to get different views and generally enjoy ourselves, and we found out way to the cliffside at Downpatrick Head, where there are great big gaping holes in the ground leading to beautifully-colored ocean below. It was all very enter-at-your-own-risk. There was a little statue to St. Patrick, of course.
We returned by midafternoon and it was more weeds and planting flowers. Beryl uses the biodynamic calendar for her planting, so we can only plant certain types of things on any given day. Weeding is apparently ok any time, and that's good thing, because there is plenty of it to do. It was nice to be out in the afternoon sun, though the wind had picked up by then and was roaring away as usual. I had a walk in the evening and home for bean soup and rice. Beryl went into town for Irish language practice, but I felt like playing homebody. Travel timewarp is getting to me, a bit.
We returned by midafternoon and it was more weeds and planting flowers. Beryl uses the biodynamic calendar for her planting, so we can only plant certain types of things on any given day. Weeding is apparently ok any time, and that's good thing, because there is plenty of it to do. It was nice to be out in the afternoon sun, though the wind had picked up by then and was roaring away as usual. I had a walk in the evening and home for bean soup and rice. Beryl went into town for Irish language practice, but I felt like playing homebody. Travel timewarp is getting to me, a bit.
And so it begins in Ireland.
Thursday 26 March 2009: Leaving day
Lex returned late the night before from Seattle and Emily and I went to pick him up at the airport in Baltimore... another in a series of short-sleep nights. Since Simeon had been visiting since I had finished the Ag Science Policy Internship, there had been a lot of running around, exploring DC, just being together with friends... So anyway, by the time I got to this day, there was just a little packing left to do and a few chores. Lex and Emily came home to take me to Dulles around 5:30pm – just in time for rush-hour traffic. It took us ages to get through DC – which was fine by me because it gave us those few more moments in parting. Coming and going is easier all the time, but parting is always so damned painful.
Friday 27 March: Arriving Day
The plane trip was brief – about 5.5 hours – and they kept the lights on and lots of activity around the cabin – I wasn't sleepy, found it hard to rest, and only got about an hour. I was stuck in the middle of the plane and could not see out the windows, so it was all a little disorienting to suddenly be in Dublin. Customs and bag claim was quite easy to pass through. I had not spoken with or seen (only exchanged occasional emails) my friend Mooney since we shared a few hours on a bus in New Zealand about 6 years ago and wondered how I expected to recognize him.... Well, luckily he was waiting for me and found me quickly enough (after only asking one other person if she were me) and we were off to explore. I was wide awake by this time and ready to run out into the world. It was about 8:30am local time – again, perfect for rush hour, so we had a chance to catch up while stalled in traffic. We took an alternate route South of Dublin and out towards Bray. I think. It is hard to recall all the place names now...
Mooney took me to 'the best bakery' around for a cup of coffee and a delicious apple strudel. It perked us up for a walk in a little valley outside the city where there had recently been a great controversy over a proposed road-widening and a pile of activists went to live in the trees for a year in protest. Eventually, they reached a compromise and the road was widened, but with supports to prevent erosion. It was a nice little trail...
From there, we went on to the sea. After a little walk through a holiday park and along the beach, I tucked into a side-of-the-road pub to use the loo where the local men who were gathered in the middle of the afternoon really stared a bit too silently at us. We decided to be on our way back to Dublin.
I left Mooney to rest and went out to wander Dublin a bit on my own. Spent some time watching other tourists in St. Stephen's Green (a charming little park in the city center... there are many gated parks like this around the city, all nicely maintained) and walked up and down a few of the main shopping avenues. Took delight in finding little reminders of home. Generally just wanted to see the scene. It feels like a teensy little place, with such low buildings and a quaint feel – but busy busy busy. I like it, anyway.
Mooney's lovely fiance, Winnie, joined us around 6:30pm and we three went out for dinner and then to the pub. (There are a slough of both just a short walk up the Ranelagh Road from their flat... Dublin is composed of a series of little villages all joined together by sprawl.) We went to “Cafe, Bar and Deli” and I had a delicious salad. At the pub: Winnie had spoken highly of the pear cider, which is apparently a popular drink, so we each had a bottle – and suddenly another showed up! I was quite finished after one, but now I was expected to have another – and they were huge bottles! I got through about half, and there was talk of a third round, but I was definitely done. Mooney and Winnie lamented my poor soul, and how hard I would have it in the countryside pubs if I didn't get my alcohol tolerance up now. Eventually they relented and took me home for a long night's sleep. I had my very own cozy air-mattress in the front room, and I only remember waking up the next day after the others... surprised?
Saturday, 28 March: The Christening
No, really, it is not some obscure reference. We were to be at the church by noon for the Christening of Mooney's niece, Abigail. We got up rather late in the morning and were in just a bit of a rush, but after a shower and a simple breakfast of scrambled eggs and toast, actually turned out to arrive early. The church was grand and the ceremony was small and informal and very sweet. The real party was a reception at the home of Mooney's brother and sister-in-law, who put on a wonderful spread for about 30 people, including various-aged children. I discovered that marshmallows are a local favorite. I also discovered that Gateau Diane is absolutely delicious!
It was late in the day by the time we left the party. We went out for a little walk around Dublin: along the canal where we found a bronze likeness of the poet Kavanagh, through another local park with some disturbing bronze sculptures I will not try to explain, into the city center and to Wagamama's for dinner. This Asian-fusion fast-healthy-food joint is apparently in the US as well, though I had never heard of it. (I loved it!) After, pub again, where I got away with just a wee half-pint of Guinness and we were off home to watch Slumdog Millionaire.
Sunday, 29 March: Hiking, Market, Exploring around Dublin
We got up early enough to be on our way in the morning to climb Sugarloaf Peak. Good views! And after working up our appetites, in to Avoca for scones and tea (yum!). It's a funny little spot, very cute, with a little shop and a sort of lunch-counter style restaurant, but with a homey, comfortable feel and very pretty landscaping. They put out a couple of nice cookbooks which I see in local bookshops all around and I will likely drag home with me by the end of this visit. It was busy, apparently popular with both tourists and the after-church Sunday crowd.
Then down to Dunleary for the Farmer's Market and a walk down the Pier. Just the things for a Sunday afternoon. I was also introduced to another local favorite: the “99”. It is a soft-serve ice cream cone with a Cadbury Flake stuck in. It cost 2 Euro. I still have not ascertained why it is called a “99”, but whatever. It was fun to have. (Although I really had been too well-fed at this point...)
At the market, I met Vince, who runs the California Bakery, or something like that. Born Irish but having lived in CA for many decades, he and his wife returned to bake fresh muffins and granola– not common here – among other delights. There were several ethnic food booths, including Lebanese, and one large produce seller. It was not all too different from a US farmer's market, especially like those on the East coast I have seen. A little less fine produce, but a good variety of tasty things.
From there we had a drive in the countryside and stopped along the road at a little German graveyard. There was a hostel nearby where Mooney had stayed as a scout, and there had been news that the owners of the property had been arrested for murder when a few bodies of solo travelers turned up... ah, the peaceful isolation of the countryside!
We returned home relatively early and had an evening in, complete with television.
Monday, 30 March: On a train to Ballina
I was overwhelmed by the generous hospitality of my hosts in Dublin, and I am looking forward to having them visit California to return the favor. If Irish hospitality were not famous, it certainly should be! Mooney got up extra early in the morning to deliver me to the train station where I got a ticket for 15 Euro – a good deal apparently, to Ballina.
On the train, I sat across from a lovely woman named Ann Murphy. It was fun to discover little coincidences together. She is Irish born but has lived in California for many years and is out to visit family around the country. She shared her lunch with me, since I had forgotten to bring along anything. We chatted the whole way to Manulla Junction where I changed to a smaller train to Ballina (Beal an Atha). The trains are very smooth and tidy and cute and far more pleasant than Amtrak, I must confess. And apparently with good special rates.
I was met at the station by Beryl, who I had come to WWOOF with, and the taxi driver Tommy O'Boyle. Beryl is from Berkeley and only maintains the farm here about ¾ of the year. She utilizes the taxi to get in and out of town – it is relatively inexpensive compared to maintaining a vehicle, and Tommy is a sweet fellow who knows everything and everyone, so it is easy to keep up on local news when you see him a few times a week.
We came out to get settled in and it was a lovely afternoon so I was ready to get into the earth. After meeting the two kitties and two donkeys and having a walking tour of the few acres and local paths, I spent a while chasing nettle runners out of the soil. The evening light was gorgeous and the company of birds and insects was very pleasant indeed.
We went into town to see if we could find some traditional music in one of the local pubs, but nothing was on, so we just came back. I think I must have done something wrong along the way because I woke in the middle of the night to lose my dinner... I was awfully sick to my stomach, but slept well into the next day after that little episode.
Tuesday, 31 March: A quiet day in the garden
Taking it easy with my stomach after the previous night. Rain in the morning so we started in the garden in the afternoon. Planted some root seeds and put potatoes in the ground. More nettle weeding. Met the neighbor, Eddie, who came round with the tractor to borrow a couple barrels of water for power-washing the house (they ran out – no, I don't understand it either). He stayed for tea and did not particularly like the spelt-fruit loaf that Beryl had gotten from one of the local producers for me. I like it, though :) In exchange for the water, I guess, he took care of a few projects around the place requiring a chain saw.
Wednesday, 01 April: The Refugee Garden
After a morning of transplanting daffodils to the front lane (they are in ridiculous abundance all over the island), Beryl and I headed into town for a little exploring and grocery shopping. We stopped in to a little health-food eatery for a smoothie and spent a while browsing the bookshop.
Beryl is the head gardener for the community garden serving a population of refugees from Burma from the Kuran ethnic group. It is located at the Bishop's quarter's of the boys' high school. She gardens there Wed and Fri afternoons, so I accompanied her to help today. There were about 6 others there, and I chatted mostly with Tishue and Jogay while weeding paths and doing bed prep. I was visited by on of the teensy little robins while I kneeled on the path, pulling weds. The cheeky thing tested me out and hoped around behind me and pecked at my shoe, then dashed off. It was a precious moment.
We had a couple relaxed hours back at home before Beryl's gospel choir rehearsal. I went to listen – it was a lively group of about 30 or more people, complete with a drum, keyboard and guitar. And solos! Impressive ones, in fact. After, we tried again a local pub for traditional music, but the musicians had no audience, because everyone was watching a soccer game tonight – Italy vs. Ireland. Guess it takes precedence here, sports. Back home and to get my blog ready to put online! But the internet was being tentative (argh!) and it would have to wait for the morrow.
Lex returned late the night before from Seattle and Emily and I went to pick him up at the airport in Baltimore... another in a series of short-sleep nights. Since Simeon had been visiting since I had finished the Ag Science Policy Internship, there had been a lot of running around, exploring DC, just being together with friends... So anyway, by the time I got to this day, there was just a little packing left to do and a few chores. Lex and Emily came home to take me to Dulles around 5:30pm – just in time for rush-hour traffic. It took us ages to get through DC – which was fine by me because it gave us those few more moments in parting. Coming and going is easier all the time, but parting is always so damned painful.
Friday 27 March: Arriving Day
The plane trip was brief – about 5.5 hours – and they kept the lights on and lots of activity around the cabin – I wasn't sleepy, found it hard to rest, and only got about an hour. I was stuck in the middle of the plane and could not see out the windows, so it was all a little disorienting to suddenly be in Dublin. Customs and bag claim was quite easy to pass through. I had not spoken with or seen (only exchanged occasional emails) my friend Mooney since we shared a few hours on a bus in New Zealand about 6 years ago and wondered how I expected to recognize him.... Well, luckily he was waiting for me and found me quickly enough (after only asking one other person if she were me) and we were off to explore. I was wide awake by this time and ready to run out into the world. It was about 8:30am local time – again, perfect for rush hour, so we had a chance to catch up while stalled in traffic. We took an alternate route South of Dublin and out towards Bray. I think. It is hard to recall all the place names now...
Mooney took me to 'the best bakery' around for a cup of coffee and a delicious apple strudel. It perked us up for a walk in a little valley outside the city where there had recently been a great controversy over a proposed road-widening and a pile of activists went to live in the trees for a year in protest. Eventually, they reached a compromise and the road was widened, but with supports to prevent erosion. It was a nice little trail...
From there, we went on to the sea. After a little walk through a holiday park and along the beach, I tucked into a side-of-the-road pub to use the loo where the local men who were gathered in the middle of the afternoon really stared a bit too silently at us. We decided to be on our way back to Dublin.
I left Mooney to rest and went out to wander Dublin a bit on my own. Spent some time watching other tourists in St. Stephen's Green (a charming little park in the city center... there are many gated parks like this around the city, all nicely maintained) and walked up and down a few of the main shopping avenues. Took delight in finding little reminders of home. Generally just wanted to see the scene. It feels like a teensy little place, with such low buildings and a quaint feel – but busy busy busy. I like it, anyway.
Mooney's lovely fiance, Winnie, joined us around 6:30pm and we three went out for dinner and then to the pub. (There are a slough of both just a short walk up the Ranelagh Road from their flat... Dublin is composed of a series of little villages all joined together by sprawl.) We went to “Cafe, Bar and Deli” and I had a delicious salad. At the pub: Winnie had spoken highly of the pear cider, which is apparently a popular drink, so we each had a bottle – and suddenly another showed up! I was quite finished after one, but now I was expected to have another – and they were huge bottles! I got through about half, and there was talk of a third round, but I was definitely done. Mooney and Winnie lamented my poor soul, and how hard I would have it in the countryside pubs if I didn't get my alcohol tolerance up now. Eventually they relented and took me home for a long night's sleep. I had my very own cozy air-mattress in the front room, and I only remember waking up the next day after the others... surprised?
Saturday, 28 March: The Christening
No, really, it is not some obscure reference. We were to be at the church by noon for the Christening of Mooney's niece, Abigail. We got up rather late in the morning and were in just a bit of a rush, but after a shower and a simple breakfast of scrambled eggs and toast, actually turned out to arrive early. The church was grand and the ceremony was small and informal and very sweet. The real party was a reception at the home of Mooney's brother and sister-in-law, who put on a wonderful spread for about 30 people, including various-aged children. I discovered that marshmallows are a local favorite. I also discovered that Gateau Diane is absolutely delicious!
It was late in the day by the time we left the party. We went out for a little walk around Dublin: along the canal where we found a bronze likeness of the poet Kavanagh, through another local park with some disturbing bronze sculptures I will not try to explain, into the city center and to Wagamama's for dinner. This Asian-fusion fast-healthy-food joint is apparently in the US as well, though I had never heard of it. (I loved it!) After, pub again, where I got away with just a wee half-pint of Guinness and we were off home to watch Slumdog Millionaire.
Sunday, 29 March: Hiking, Market, Exploring around Dublin
We got up early enough to be on our way in the morning to climb Sugarloaf Peak. Good views! And after working up our appetites, in to Avoca for scones and tea (yum!). It's a funny little spot, very cute, with a little shop and a sort of lunch-counter style restaurant, but with a homey, comfortable feel and very pretty landscaping. They put out a couple of nice cookbooks which I see in local bookshops all around and I will likely drag home with me by the end of this visit. It was busy, apparently popular with both tourists and the after-church Sunday crowd.
Then down to Dunleary for the Farmer's Market and a walk down the Pier. Just the things for a Sunday afternoon. I was also introduced to another local favorite: the “99”. It is a soft-serve ice cream cone with a Cadbury Flake stuck in. It cost 2 Euro. I still have not ascertained why it is called a “99”, but whatever. It was fun to have. (Although I really had been too well-fed at this point...)
At the market, I met Vince, who runs the California Bakery, or something like that. Born Irish but having lived in CA for many decades, he and his wife returned to bake fresh muffins and granola– not common here – among other delights. There were several ethnic food booths, including Lebanese, and one large produce seller. It was not all too different from a US farmer's market, especially like those on the East coast I have seen. A little less fine produce, but a good variety of tasty things.
From there we had a drive in the countryside and stopped along the road at a little German graveyard. There was a hostel nearby where Mooney had stayed as a scout, and there had been news that the owners of the property had been arrested for murder when a few bodies of solo travelers turned up... ah, the peaceful isolation of the countryside!
We returned home relatively early and had an evening in, complete with television.
Monday, 30 March: On a train to Ballina
I was overwhelmed by the generous hospitality of my hosts in Dublin, and I am looking forward to having them visit California to return the favor. If Irish hospitality were not famous, it certainly should be! Mooney got up extra early in the morning to deliver me to the train station where I got a ticket for 15 Euro – a good deal apparently, to Ballina.
On the train, I sat across from a lovely woman named Ann Murphy. It was fun to discover little coincidences together. She is Irish born but has lived in California for many years and is out to visit family around the country. She shared her lunch with me, since I had forgotten to bring along anything. We chatted the whole way to Manulla Junction where I changed to a smaller train to Ballina (Beal an Atha). The trains are very smooth and tidy and cute and far more pleasant than Amtrak, I must confess. And apparently with good special rates.
I was met at the station by Beryl, who I had come to WWOOF with, and the taxi driver Tommy O'Boyle. Beryl is from Berkeley and only maintains the farm here about ¾ of the year. She utilizes the taxi to get in and out of town – it is relatively inexpensive compared to maintaining a vehicle, and Tommy is a sweet fellow who knows everything and everyone, so it is easy to keep up on local news when you see him a few times a week.
We came out to get settled in and it was a lovely afternoon so I was ready to get into the earth. After meeting the two kitties and two donkeys and having a walking tour of the few acres and local paths, I spent a while chasing nettle runners out of the soil. The evening light was gorgeous and the company of birds and insects was very pleasant indeed.
We went into town to see if we could find some traditional music in one of the local pubs, but nothing was on, so we just came back. I think I must have done something wrong along the way because I woke in the middle of the night to lose my dinner... I was awfully sick to my stomach, but slept well into the next day after that little episode.
Tuesday, 31 March: A quiet day in the garden
Taking it easy with my stomach after the previous night. Rain in the morning so we started in the garden in the afternoon. Planted some root seeds and put potatoes in the ground. More nettle weeding. Met the neighbor, Eddie, who came round with the tractor to borrow a couple barrels of water for power-washing the house (they ran out – no, I don't understand it either). He stayed for tea and did not particularly like the spelt-fruit loaf that Beryl had gotten from one of the local producers for me. I like it, though :) In exchange for the water, I guess, he took care of a few projects around the place requiring a chain saw.
Wednesday, 01 April: The Refugee Garden
After a morning of transplanting daffodils to the front lane (they are in ridiculous abundance all over the island), Beryl and I headed into town for a little exploring and grocery shopping. We stopped in to a little health-food eatery for a smoothie and spent a while browsing the bookshop.
Beryl is the head gardener for the community garden serving a population of refugees from Burma from the Kuran ethnic group. It is located at the Bishop's quarter's of the boys' high school. She gardens there Wed and Fri afternoons, so I accompanied her to help today. There were about 6 others there, and I chatted mostly with Tishue and Jogay while weeding paths and doing bed prep. I was visited by on of the teensy little robins while I kneeled on the path, pulling weds. The cheeky thing tested me out and hoped around behind me and pecked at my shoe, then dashed off. It was a precious moment.
We had a couple relaxed hours back at home before Beryl's gospel choir rehearsal. I went to listen – it was a lively group of about 30 or more people, complete with a drum, keyboard and guitar. And solos! Impressive ones, in fact. After, we tried again a local pub for traditional music, but the musicians had no audience, because everyone was watching a soccer game tonight – Italy vs. Ireland. Guess it takes precedence here, sports. Back home and to get my blog ready to put online! But the internet was being tentative (argh!) and it would have to wait for the morrow.
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